COVID-19 e o anticonsumo: uma análise dos efeitos da pandemia na indústria da moda

Ahmed Sameer El Khatib

doi:10.23925/2178-0080.2022v24i1.52355

Autores

Ahmed Sameer El Khatib Fundação Escola de Comércio Álvares Penteado

DOI:

https://doi.org/10.23925/2178-0080.2022v24i1.52355

Palavras-chave:

COVID-19, Moda, Anticonsumo

Resumo

O objetivo da presente pesquisa é analisar como a crise econômica atual, provocada pela Pandemia da COVID-19, afetou o comportamento de consumo de moda dos consumidores e quais as práticas alternativas de consumo que tem emergido. Para atingir o objetivo da pesquisa, foram utilizadas vinte entrevistas semiestruturadas durante os meses de abril e maio de 2020. A pesquisa ainda esclarece os sentimentos subjacentes envolvidos devido a mudanças nos padrões de consumo. Alguns dos temas que emergem; reutilizar, reduzir e recusar, que estão alinhados com os achados anteriores sobre anticonsumo, mas desta vez os motivos dos consumidores não são voluntários, mas sim provocados por uma crise generalizada na saúde com consequências econômicas.

Metrics

Carregando Métricas ...

Biografia do Autor

Ahmed Sameer El Khatib, Fundação Escola de Comércio Álvares Penteado

Professor do Programa de Mestrado em Ciências Contábeis da Fundação Escola de Comércio Álvares Penteado (FECAP)

Referências

Albinsson, P. A., Wolf, M., & Kopf, D. A. (2010). Anti-consumption in East Germany: Consumer resistance to hyperconsumption. Journal of Consumer Behaviour, 9(6), 412–425. https://doi.org/ 10.1002/cb.333

Alimen, N., & Bayraktaroglu, G. (2011). Consumption adjustments of Turkish consumers during the global ﬁnancial crisis. Ege Akademik Bakis, 11(2), 193. https://doi.org/10.1111/ijcs.12374

Alonso, L. E., Rodríguez, C. J. F., & Rojo, R. I. (2015). From consumerism to guilt: Economic crisis and discourses about consumption in Spain. Journal of Consumer Culture, 15(1), 66–85. https:// doi.org/10.1177/1469540513493203

Altunışık, R., Torlak, Ö., & Özdemir, Ş. (2003). Ekonomik Kriz ve Değişen Alışveriş Alışkanlıkları Üzerine Bir Araştırma [A research on economic crisis and changing consumption habits] [Paper presentation]. 8th national congress of marketing, Kayseri, Turkey.

Ang, S. H. (2001). Personality inﬂuences on consumption: Insights from the Asian economic crisis. Journal of International Consumer Marketing, 13(1), 5–20. https://doi.org/10.1300/J046v13n01_02

Ang, S. H., Siew, M. L., & Philip, K. (2000). The Asian apocalypse: Crisis marketing for consumers and businesses. Long Range Planning, 33(1), 97–119. https://doi.org/10.1016/S0024- 6301(99) 00100-4

Arnould, E. J., & Wallendorf, M. (1994). Market-oriented ethnography: Interpretation building and marketing strategy formulation. Journal of Marketing Research, 31(4), 484–504. https://doi. org/10.2307/3151878

Beard, N. D. (2008). The branding of ethical fashion and the consumer: A luxury niche or mass-market reality? Fashion Theory, 12(4), 447–467. https://doi.org/ 10.2752/175174108X346931

Belk, R. W. (1985). Materialism: Trait aspects of living in the material world. Journal of Consumer Research, 12(3), 265–280. https://doi.org/10.1086/208515

Bhatia, V. (2019). Impact of fashion interest, materialism and internet addiction on e- compulsive buying behaviour of apparel. Journal of Global Fashion Marketing, 10(1), 66–80. https://doi.org/ 10.1080/20932685.2018.1544502

Biehl-Missal, B. (2013). Art, fashion, and anti-consumption. Journal of Macromarketing, 33(3), 245–257. https://doi.org/10.1177/0276146713477865

Carson, D., Gilmore, A., Perry, C., & Gronhaug, K. (2001). Qualitative marketing Research. Sage. https://doi.org/10.4135/9781849209625

Cataldi, C., Dickson, M., & Grover, C. (2010) Slow Fashion: Tailoring a Strategic Approach towards Sustainability. Master’s Thesis submitted for Master of Strategic Leadership towards Sustainability, Blekinge Institute of Technology, Karlskrona, Sweden. Retrieved from: https:// www.diva-portal.org/smash/get/diva2:832785/FULLTEXT01.pdf

Chatzidakis, A., & Lee, M. S. (2013). Anti-consumption as the study of reasons against. Journal of Macromarketing, 33(3), 190–203. https://doi.org/10.1177/02761467 12462892

Cherrier, H. (2009). Anti-consumption discourses and consumer-resistant identities.

Journal of Business Research, 62(2), 181–190. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jbusres. 2008.01.025

Cherrier, H., Black, I. R., & Lee, M. (2011). Intentional non-consumption for sustainability: Consumer resistance and/or anti-consumption? European Journal of Marketing, 45(11/12), 1757–1767. https://doi.org/10.1108/0309056111116 7397

Cline, E. L. (2012). Overdressed: The shockingly high cost of cheap fashion. Portfolio. Craig-Lees, M., & Hill, C. (2002). Understanding voluntary simpliﬁers. Psychology & Marketing, 19 (2), 187–210. https://doi.org/10.1002/mar.10009

Edbring, E. G., Lehner, M., & Mont, O. (2016, June). Exploring consumer attitudes to alternative models of consumption: Motivations and barriers. Journal of Cleaner Production, 123, 5–15. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jclepro.2015.10.107

Elgin, D., & Mitchell, A. (1977). Voluntary simplicity. Planning Review, 5(6), 13–15. https://doi. org/10.1108/eb053820

Fletcher, K. (2008). Sustainable fashion and textiles: Design journeys. Earthscan.

Glaser, B. G., & Strauss, A. L. (1967). The discovery of grounded theory: Strategies for qualitative research. Aldire.

Guiot, D., & Roux, D. (2010). A second-hand shoppers’ motivation scale: Antecedents, conse- quences, and implications for retailers. Journal of Retailing, 86(4), 355–371. https://doi.org/10. 1016/j.jretai.2010.08.002

Ha-Brookshire, J. E., & Hodges, N. N. (2009). Socially responsible consumer behavior? Exploring used clothing donation behavior. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 27(3), 179– 196. https://doi.org/10.1177/0887302X08327199

Jain, S., & Mishra, S. (2020). Luxury fashion consumption in sharing economy: A study of Indian millennials. Journal of Global Fashion Marketing, 11(2), 171–189. https://doi.org/10.1080/ 20932685.2019.1709097

Joy, A., Sherry, J., Jr, Venkatesh, F., Wang, A. J., & Chan, R. (2012). Fast fashion, sustainability, and the ethical appeal of luxury brands. Fashion Theory, 16(3), 273–295. https://doi.org/10.2752/ 175174112X13340749707123

Kaswengi, J., & Diallo, M. F. (2015, March). Consumer choice of store brands across store formats: A panel data analysis under crisis periods. Journal of Retailing and Consumer Services, 23, 70–76. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jretconser.2014. 12.003

Kaytaz, M., & Gul, M. C. (2014). Consumer response to economic crisis and lessons for marketers: The Turkish experience. Journal of Business Research, 67(1), 2701–2706. https://doi.org/10. 1016/j.jbusres.2013.03.019

Kozinets, R. V., Handelman, J. M., & Lee, M. S. (2010). Don’t read this; or, who cares what the hell anti-consumption is, anyways? Consumption Markets & Culture, 13(3), 225–233. https://doi. org/10.1080/10253861003786918

Lee, M., Roux, D., Cherrier, H., & Cova, B. (2011). Anti-consumption and consumer resistance: Concepts, concerns, conﬂicts and convergence. European Journal of Marketing, 45(11/12), 11/ 12. https://doi.org/10.1108/ejm.2011.00745kaa.001

Lee, M. S. W., & Ahn, C. S. Y. (2016). Anti-consumption, materialism, and consumer well-being. Journal of Consumer Aﬀairs, 50(1), 18–47. https://doi.org/10.1111/ joca.12089

Lee, M. S. W., Motion, J., & Conroy, D. (2009). Anti-consumption and brand avoidance. Journal of Business Research, 62(2), 169–180. https://doi.org/10. 1016/j.jbusres.2008.01.024

Mariampolski, H. (2001). Qualitative market research: A comprehensive guide. Sage Publications. https://doi.org/10.4135/9781412985529

McKenzie, D. J. (2006). The consumer response to the Mexican Peso Crisis. Economic Development and Cultural Change, 55(1), 139–172. https://doi.org/1 0.1086/505721

McRobbie, A. (1997). Bridging the gap: Feminism, fashion and consumption. Feminist Review, 55 (1), 73–89. https://doi.org/10.1057/fr.1997.4

Sandıkcı, Ö., & Ekici, A. (2009). Politically motivated brand rejection. Journal of Business Research, 62(2), 208–217. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jbusres. 2008.01.028

Sandlin, J. A., & Milam, J. L. (2008). “Mixing pop (culture) and politics”: Cultural resistance, culture jamming, and anti-consumption activism as critical public pedagogy. Curriculum Inquiry, 38(3), 323–350. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1467-873X.2008.00411.x

Savelli, E. (2011). Role of brand management of the luxury fashion brand I n the global economic crisis: A case study of Aeﬀe Group. Journal of Global Fashion Marketing, 2(3), 170– 179. https:// doi.org/10.1080/20932685.2011.10593095

Shama, A. (1978). Management & consumers in an era of stagﬂation. The Journal of Marketing, 42 (3), 43–52. https://doi.org/10.1177/002224297804200310

Shultz, C. J. (2001). Special session summary Have-Not’S in a world of Haves: Disenfranchised nations and their consumers in an increasingly aﬄuent and global world. In M. C. Gilly & J. Meyers-Levy (Eds.), NA - Advances in consumer research (Vol. 28, pp. 277–279). Valdosta, GA: Association for Consumer Research. https://www.acrwebsite.org/volumes/8489/volumes/v28/ NA-28

Spiggle, S. (1994). Analysis and interpretation of qualitative data in consumer research. Journal of Consumer Research, 21(3), 491–503. https://doi.org/10.1086/209413

Tanner, C., & Wölﬁng Kast, S. (2003). Promoting sustainable consumption: Determinants of green purchases by Swiss consumers. Psychology & Marketing, 20(10), 883–902. https://doi.org/10. 1002/mar.10101

Wilson, E. (2003). Adorned in dreams: Fashion and modernity. IB Tauris.

Zaman, M., Park, H., Kim, Y., & Park, S. (2019). Consumer orientations of second-hand clothing shoppers. Journal of Global Fashion Marketing, 10(2), 163–176. https://doi.org/10.1080/ 20932685.2019.1576060

Zavestoski, S. (2002). The social–psychological bases of anticonsumption attitudes. Psychology & Marketing, 19(2), 149–165. https://doi.org/10.1002/mar.10007

Zurawicki, L., & Braidot, N. (2005). Consumers during crisis: Responses from the middle class in Argentina. Journal of Business Research, 58(8), 1100–1109. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jbusres. 2004.03.005