When clothes say everything

A descriptive analysis of the Confucian system of “mourning robes”

Abstract

This study examines the Confucian system of “mourning robes” to argue that material aspects alone can define a religious institution. Noting the absence of theoretical research on “mourning robes” within the framework of material religion, the introduction highlights the ancient Confucian religion’s distinctive features: extreme ritualism, immanence, and depersonalization, which transform religious feelings, values, and beliefs into concrete forms. The study is divided into two sections. The first critically analyzes the “Five Clothes,” which hierarchizes the mourner’s suffering. Through their materials and design, these garments induce physical discomfort, reflect the wearer’s social standing, embody religious symbols, and serve as tools for social control. The second section explores the performative role of the robes, which prescribe specific behavioral patterns in space and time. One part addresses how the robes are assigned, merging kinship ties with political authority according to Confucian values. The other part examines how the robes transcend individual agency, standardizing behavior through their influence on buildings, utensils, diet, and mourning practices. By focusing on the materiality of the mourning robes, this study underscores their central role in shaping religious and social structures within Confucianism.